Why premium water, not wine, is the new status symbol for India’s rich

At a gourmet food store in India, a group of customers swirl shot glasses, sniff carefully and sip in silence. The tasting is blind, the atmosphere serious. But this is not wine. It is water.

The samples come from the French Alps, southern France, Italy and the foothills of India’s Aravalli mountains. Participants assess minerality, carbonation and salinity in Evian, Perrier, San Pellegrino and Indian brand Aava — a ritual that reflects how bottled water has quietly entered the country’s luxury landscape.

What was once a basic necessity has become a lifestyle choice for India’s wealthy, as premium mineral water gains traction as a status symbol closely tied to wellness, health and exclusivity.

According to Reuters, this shift has helped turn premium water into a $400 million business in the world’s most populous country, with growth accelerating as affluent consumers increasingly pay for what they see as purity and nutrition.

“They will all taste different … you should be choosing a water that can give you some sort of nutritional value,” said Avanti Mehta, 32, who calls herself India’s youngest water sommelier — a title more commonly associated with fine wine. Her family owns the Aava mineral water brand, Reuters reported.

Premium Indian mineral water typically costs about $1 for a one-litre bottle, while imported brands sell for upwards of $3 — around 15 times the price of the country’s cheapest bottled water, according to Reuters.

Clean drinking water remains out of reach for many in the country of 1.4 billion people. Researchers say 70% of India’s groundwater is contaminated, Reuters reported. Tap water is widely considered unsafe, and in December, 16 people died in Indore city after consuming contaminated tap water.

As a result, bottled water is seen as a necessity across much of India. Standard 20 U.S.-cent bottles are widely sold at shops, restaurants and hotels. The overall bottled water market is worth nearly $5 billion a year and is expected to grow 24% annually — among the fastest growth rates globally, Reuters reported.

By contrast, bottled water markets in the United States and China are driven mainly by convenience, making them $30 billion-plus markets that are expected to grow just 4–5% annually, according to Euromonitor data cited by Reuters.

In India, premium water is leading the surge. It accounted for 8% of the bottled water market last year, up from just 1% in 2021, Euromonitor said.

“Distrust of municipal water in some areas has escalated the demand for bottled water. Now, people understand how mineral water has more health benefits. It’s expensive, but the category will boom,” said Amulya Pandit, a senior consultant at Euromonitor specialising in the drinks market.

Among those embracing the trend is New Delhi-based real estate developer B.S. Batra. He told Reuters that his family uses only premium mineral water at home to increase mineral intake and safeguard health.

“You feel different, more energetic during the day,” said Batra, 49, an avid badminton player. “I consume mineral water even with whisky at home, and kids use it for their smoothies.”

The mass market remains dominated by low-cost bottled water produced mainly by Pepsi, Coca-Cola and Indian market leader Bisleri, Reuters reported. Many households that can afford it also install water purifiers, which clean tap water but remove most minerals — a gap premium mineral water brands now target.

Both imported and Indian premium waters are drawing interest from wealthy consumers and businesses. Bollywood actor Bhumi Pednekar and her sister have launched Backbay, selling 750 ml cartons of mineral water for $2.2. Indian conglomerate Tata is expanding its premium water portfolio, while retailers report rising sales, according to Reuters.

Tata Consumer Products’ chief executive Sunil D’Souza told Reuters that while the company sells 20-cent bottled water, premium water is its priority as affluent, health-focused consumers are willing to pay without worrying about price.

“I don’t have to push water uphill…I see a long, long, long runway for the business,” he said.

Tata’s premium “Himalayan” mineral water factory, located in Himachal Pradesh, sources water from a natural underground aquifer. A Reuters photographer who visited the site observed workers largely overseeing automated machinery filling plastic and glass bottles.

Still water remains the dominant choice in India, while sparkling water is niche. Tata plans to launch a sparkling Himalayan water and is scouting for natural springs to expand its offerings, Reuters reported.

At three Foodstories gourmet stores, sales of premium waters tripled in 2025. Rising demand prompted the chain to import Saratoga Spring Water from New York, priced at 799 rupees ($9) for a 355-millilitre bottle. Stocks sold out within days, co-founder Avni Biyani said.

Indian brand Aava recorded sales of 805 million rupees ($9 million) last year, growing about 40% annually since 2021. Tata said its combined basic and premium water business grew tenfold to $65 million in six years and is expected to grow 30% a year.

Imported waters face import taxes of over 30%, making them costlier than Indian brands. Nestle’s Perrier and San Pellegrino, and Danone’s Evian retail for over 300 rupees ($3.20) for a 750 ml bottle. Nestle declined to comment, while Danone told Reuters that the Indian bottled water market was growing at a “robust” pace, though imported waters remained “niche and boutique”.

“When you open your tap, you’re not getting an Aava, Evian … And that is what you’re essentially paying for,” Mehta said.

At Mehta’s tasting session, some participants said they enjoyed the experience, but many struggled with the price.

“To be honest, it is kind of expensive,” said executive Hoshini Vallabhaneni, one of 14 attendees. “For everyday use – it will burn a hole in the pocket.”

(With inputs from Reuters)